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How to Remove WIRES in Final Cut Pro!

37.6K views· 1,392 likes· 9:29· Jul 17, 2023

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This video is graded with my Vintage Look 2 LUT Pack: https://danielschiffer.sellfy.store/ Where I get music for my videos (2 Months Free): https://bit.ly/artlist-danielschiffer GEAR I USE FOR VIDEOS: Sony A7C body only (Talking-head camera) on Amazon: https://geni.us/9cdDlHW Sony A7Siii body only on Amazon: https://geni.us/B102 Sennheiser MKH416 shotgun microphone on Amazon: https://geni.us/Jbp5n PolarPro Recon Matte box on Amazon: https://geni.us/9cLM Zeiss Batis 25mm Lens on Amazon: https://geni.us/eyTtpy Zeiss Batis 40mm Lens on Amazon: https://geni.us/WxvYp Aputure 300D ii on Amazon: https://geni.us/UlLbD Aputure Light Dome ii on Amazon: https://geni.us/f2LUR ________________________ Some of the links above are affiliate links, where I earn a small commission if you click on the link and purchase an item. You are not obligated to do so, but it does help fund these videos in hopes of bringing value to you! For sponsorship, product reviews, and collaboration, you can email me here: daniel.i.schiffer@gmail.com ig: @daniel.schiffer ________________________ ________________________

About This Video

In this video I’m showing you how I remove wires (specifically fishing line) in Final Cut Pro—even though FCP doesn’t have a built-in wire removal tool like After Effects. I’m using a shot from my hockey skate “mock commercial” where the skate is literally hanging from a boom arm, and if you leave that line in the final edit it completely kills the magic. The goal is to get that floating product look without distracting rigging showing up on camera. The biggest takeaway: do your edit pacing first. I always stabilize, speed ramp, and keyframe transforms before I touch wire removal, because changing timing after the fact can mess up your masks and make you redo everything. Then I break the job into two parts: the easy section of wire on the dark background (smoke + black) and the harder section where the line crosses the product itself. The workflow is basically compound clip, duplicate, draw mask + invert, then use a blurred underlying layer (Gaussian Blur with vertical blur at 0) and small exposure tweaks to blend the patch. Finally, keyframe the mask points and transforms so it tracks through the shot. It’s a little tedious, but once you’ve done it a few times it’s a couple minutes of work for a shot that feels “impossible.”

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