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Would I stand a Chance in a Youth Competition? Analytic Bouldering

3.9K views· 143 likes· 8:30· Apr 6, 2024

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There's some really good comp boulders in the Newton Kapfenberg right now... Would I stand a chance in a Youth Competition? Analytic Bouldering by Mani the Monkey How to support my work most effectively: Like, comment, subscribe, activate the stupid bell, Access exclusive content @ https://www.patreon.com/manithemonkey & @ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvkGOw5JmJ3TPdXNiEFwq6Q/join Tip Box @ https://www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney BTC: 16rkAJ8Urha5jFBcWD7bsUvHZazmWbWoRx ETH: 0xe63b232f81a82e3bc451504fec3c513e8c38cd8f Thanks! Streaming Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCiMLS-AXGkc-lYnOgpi8ag Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/manithemonkey/ Mani's Ticklist: https://www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos: Camera: https://goo.gl/iRwk5p Audiorecorder: https://goo.gl/XpnpHV Editing Machine (using FCPX): https://goo.gl/t9EaL3 Transparency and Disclaimer: Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases made from clicking these links will grant me a small Commission. For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com Stay strong and healthy somewhere out there!

About This Video

What is up ladies and gentlemen, Mani here. In this video I’m basically doing a little “comp style spree” on the youth A-cup boulders (U16/U14) that were still up at Newton Kapfenberg, and I’m asking the obvious question: would I stand a chance in a youth competition? Huge kudos again to the route setters (Dominic, Team Lucas Poy, Patrick and Alina) because the set was honestly amazing—powerful, dynamic, and super sequence-y in that way only good comp blocs are. I break down a bunch of problems from a coaching/analysis angle: a black compression boulder with a super high right heel hook and an end dyno off a terrible sloper; another black boulder that’s very “set for shorter people,” where a tiny change in left-hand height completely changes how the right foot can come up. There’s also a funky 7A+/7B-ish cluster with heel hooks, pebble feet, gastons, underclings, and those “half static half dynamic” limit moves where you’re not even sure it’s possible until it suddenly is. The big takeaway is that comp boulders reward precision and momentum management. On the coordination dyno problem, simply swapping which hand is on which side changed my swing direction and made the move actually stick—at least from higher up. Some blocs went down (including a close flash), some didn’t, but the process is the point: position, feet accuracy, and understanding where your momentum is going.

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