In this reaction I’m basically doing what I always do: I’m talking finger strength divided by body weight, because in my opinion it’s the single most important physical trait for rock climbing performance (right before morphology). I go through a “hangboarding motivation” style compilation and use it to show what’s impressive, what’s just “cool”, and what actually transfers—especially when the edges get stupid small. Two-arm stuff can look wild, but the real separation happens when people start doing one-arm hangs and one-arm pull-ups on tiny edges like 10mm and 8mm. I also explain why training on freakishly small edges (3–6mm, if you can even tolerate it) isn’t only about strength: it’s pain resistance and tissue adaptation in the fingertip. Your forearms learn to apply force exactly where you need it, and your fingertip flesh toughens—so outdoor holds start feeling bigger. Then I contrast the typical “finger strength monsters” (often short and light, which matters for leverage) with someone like Toby Roberts: reasonably tall, long levers to overcome, and still hitting an 8mm one-armer. That’s why I’m saying: if you combine elite finger strength/weight with reach and options, you get the vibe of the future on really hard outdoor climbing.