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Why "Grip Strength" is irrelevant for Climbing | Mani Reacts

10.2K views· 184 likes· 45:52· Sep 3, 2024

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A new trend arrived in the rock climbing community: Grip Strength Training! Here I check out a couple interesting videos and share my two cents on what I think is useful/useless about it. Here's some orientation: 0:00 Intro 0:35 Grip Strength Comparison of different Olympic Athletes 2:45 Conclusion: The Difference between Grip Strength & Finger Strength 4:30 Grip Strength of Magnus Midtbø & Adam Ondra 9:20 How "Cupping" of a hold influences force distribution in fingers 10:30 Insane "Cupping Strength" of Emil Abrahamsson 11:00 Finger Genetics and their impact on Grip Challenges VS Rock Climbing 15:00 Pinching in Grip Strength VS pinching in Climbing 17:30 The Isometric-Contraction-nature of climbing 18:40 Leg genetics for Grip Strength challenges 19:30 The pinkie debate between Magnus & Adam 21:00 Grip challenges upside down to adjust them for body weight? 22:50 One of the more climbing relevant Grip Challenges 25:00 The Importance of muscle memory in Climbing & Grip Strength 27:30 Adam's groundbreaking octopusy lift 28:50 Another relatively climbing relevant Grip Challenge 32:00 Left-Right-Imbalances in Rock Climbing, one explanation 35:30 Effects of long breaks on the climbing athlete 38:00 Morphology genetics of Adam & Magnus 42:10 Why are Grip Strength monsters not dominating Rock Climbing? 44:50 Outro @AdamOndra @magmidt #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #gripstrength Thanks for watching! Why 'Grip Strength" is irrelevant for Climbing | Mani Reacts by Mani the Monkey How to support my work most effectively: Like, comment, subscribe, activate the stupid bell, Access exclusive content @ https://www.patreon.com/manithemonkey & @ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvkGOw5JmJ3TPdXNiEFwq6Q/join Tip Box @ https://www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney BTC: 16rkAJ8Urha5jFBcWD7bsUvHZazmWbWoRx ETH: 0xe63b232f81a82e3bc451504fec3c513e8c38cd8f Thanks! Streaming Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCiMLS-AXGkc-lYnOgpi8ag Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/manithemonkey/ Mani's Ticklist: https://www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos: Camera: https://goo.gl/iRwk5p Audiorecorder: https://goo.gl/XpnpHV Editing Machine (using FCPX): https://goo.gl/t9EaL3 Transparency and Disclaimer: Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases made from clicking these links will grant me a small Commission. For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com Stay strong and healthy somewhere out there!

About This Video

In this Mani Reacts episode I look at the whole “grip strength training” hype that’s floating around climbing right now, and I give you my honest take: most of what these grip gadgets measure is strength in the palm/first knuckle area, and that’s basically irrelevant for hard climbing. In climbing, what matters is whether you can transfer force into the fingertips—on small edges, shallow pockets, and all the annoying little limestone bites. Same reason I always say: a one-arm pull-up on a bar is whatever; doing it on a 10mm edge is the thing that actually transfers. I react to Magnus Midtbø testing grip tools with Adam Ondra and use it as a springboard to talk about what’s actually climbing-relevant: finger strength vs “grip strength,” how cupping a hold changes force distribution, and why pinching in climbing is often about friction and position (not just squeezing). We also get into genetics and morphology (short fingers vs long fingers, fat vs thin), the isometric “locking” nature of climbing, muscle memory and why projecting works, plus left-right imbalances that gym climbing can create. And at the end I answer the big question: if grip strength monsters are so strong, why aren’t they dominating rock climbing?

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