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The HARDEST Problem I've se(n)t in a while! Analytic Bouldering

3.8K views· 254 likes· 4:35· Mar 10, 2024

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This Boulder is worth an Analysis! The HARDEST Problem I've se(n)t in a while! Analytic Bouldering by Mani the Monkey How to support my work most effectively: Like, comment, subscribe, activate the stupid bell, Access exclusive content @ https://www.patreon.com/manithemonkey & @ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvkGOw5JmJ3TPdXNiEFwq6Q/join Tip Box @ https://www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney BTC: 16rkAJ8Urha5jFBcWD7bsUvHZazmWbWoRx ETH: 0xe63b232f81a82e3bc451504fec3c513e8c38cd8f Thanks! Streaming Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCiMLS-AXGkc-lYnOgpi8ag Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/manithemonkey/ Mani's Ticklist: https://www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos: Camera: https://goo.gl/iRwk5p Audiorecorder: https://goo.gl/XpnpHV Editing Machine (using FCPX): https://goo.gl/t9EaL3 Transparency and Disclaimer: Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases made from clicking these links will grant me a small Commission. For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com Stay strong and healthy somewhere out there!

About This Video

What is up ladies and gentlemen, Mani here. In this video I’m breaking down one of the hardest problems I’ve sent in a while—this beautiful red boulder in Newton (Captain BG), somewhere around 7B+/7C (V9-ish), and for me personally: quite hard at the moment. It’s slopey, powerful, slightly overhanging, and it totally lures you into a “straightforward” start that just doesn’t work—at least not for my body and the forces you actually need to create. I go full analytic bouldering on the key sequences: why pressing the two starting holds together fails (they’re too close, you can’t generate enough force), and how turning the right hand into an undercling pinch changes everything. Then we get into the real crux for me: the snap to the target pockety sloper. The solution is a drop knee on the sidepull/side-foothold setup, plus one very subtle but massive detail—taking the left starting sloper more as an undercling instead of a sidepull so the force direction matches the next hard pull. After you stick the target sloper, the next big lesson is speed. You’re sliding out, so you have to move fast through the steps and launch into the shoulder-gaston sloper. From there it gets easier and easier toward the top: pushing gastons, turning slopey pinches into actual pinches, and yes—gray volumes are always included here.

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