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Barn Door Physics & Quick Foot Switch Techniques🚪Analytic Bouldering

3.6K views· 176 likes· 4:21· Sep 16, 2024

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Exploring Barn Door Physics in an instructive Modern Boulder Problem. Barn Door Physics & Quick Foot Switch Techniques🚪Analytic Bouldering by Mani the Monkey How to support my work most effectively: Like, comment, subscribe, activate the stupid bell, Access exclusive content @ https://www.patreon.com/manithemonkey & @ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvkGOw5JmJ3TPdXNiEFwq6Q/join Tip Box @ https://www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney BTC: 16rkAJ8Urha5jFBcWD7bsUvHZazmWbWoRx ETH: 0xe63b232f81a82e3bc451504fec3c513e8c38cd8f Thanks! Streaming Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCiMLS-AXGkc-lYnOgpi8ag Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/manithemonkey/ Mani's Ticklist: https://www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos: Camera: https://goo.gl/iRwk5p Audiorecorder: https://goo.gl/XpnpHV Editing Machine (using FCPX): https://goo.gl/t9EaL3 Transparency and Disclaimer: Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases made from clicking these links will grant me a small Commission. For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com Stay strong and healthy somewhere out there!

About This Video

What’s up ladies and gentlemen, Manny here. In this episode I’m breaking down a super instructive modern boulder that’s basically “barn door heavy” right from move one—around 7/8+ (ish) in my gym. The problem kind of lures you into the obvious dynamic jump off the starting crimps to the first right-hand target crimp, but the real game is understanding the terrain: the right side is a bit slabby, the rest slightly overhanging, and that big volume sticking out is your best friend if you actually use your brain for a second. I show how to use that volume to stop momentum and turn the jump into more of a press, which already closes the gap and makes the catch way easier. Then we get into the physics: right hand + right foot creates an axis, my center of gravity sits left of it, and gravity plus my incoming momentum wants to swing me straight into a nasty barn door. From the last video we had three tools—move the center of gravity closer to the axis, increase counter-force, or untilt the axis—but here the only thing that works fast enough is creating counter-force immediately. So the key takeaway is the quick dynamic foot switch: release the right foot and step it against the wall to kill the swing. It’s classic modern setting—unstable catch, then rapid body readjustment to make it static. These moves look smooth when they work, but trust me, they take a ton of reps until they “click,” especially if you’re more of a static outdoor climber like I am.

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