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Barn Door Physics & Climbing Techniques🚪Analytic Bouldering

8.5K views· 416 likes· 5:21· Sep 9, 2024

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A very instructive boulder problem is starring this episode of analytic bouldering: Let's take a closer look at barn door physics and rock climbing techniques to handle them! Barn Door Physics & Climbing Techniques🚪 Analytic Bouldering by Mani the Monkey How to support my work most effectively: Like, comment, subscribe, activate the stupid bell, Access exclusive content @ https://www.patreon.com/manithemonkey & @ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvkGOw5JmJ3TPdXNiEFwq6Q/join Tip Box @ https://www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney BTC: 16rkAJ8Urha5jFBcWD7bsUvHZazmWbWoRx ETH: 0xe63b232f81a82e3bc451504fec3c513e8c38cd8f Thanks! Streaming Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCiMLS-AXGkc-lYnOgpi8ag Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/manithemonkey/ Mani's Ticklist: https://www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos: Camera: https://goo.gl/iRwk5p Audiorecorder: https://goo.gl/XpnpHV Editing Machine (using FCPX): https://goo.gl/t9EaL3 Transparency and Disclaimer: Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases made from clicking these links will grant me a small Commission. For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com Stay strong and healthy somewhere out there!

About This Video

In this Analytic Bouldering episode I’m breaking down one of my favorite “teaching” problems—an around 7/8 boulder I set myself. The start is a drop knee with a left-hand crimp, right-hand crimp, and then a super high right foot plus a nasty shallow edge that turns into a Gaston. From there you hit the classic issue: the barn door. It’s pretty vertical, the holds are shallow, and there’s a huge gap to the top—so if you don’t manage the rotation, you just get peeled. I explain barn door physics the way I think about it on the wall: your right hand and right foot become the hinges, and if you connect them you get the axis you’ll rotate around. Because the wall is vertical, your center of gravity sticks out just enough to create a force that wants to swing you away—especially when you have to leave that left foot and step up. Then I go through the practical fixes: bring your center of gravity closer to the axis (when possible), increase counter-pressure with the left hand/left foot (often you’re already maxed), or—my favorite here—make the axis less steep by stepping higher with the right foot and grabbing a bit higher with the right hand. That tiny detail changes everything, and it’s exactly why long shallow shapes are so cool for setters: endless solutions inside one hold.

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