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1st Campusboard Training in Years unlocks hard Problem! Analytic Bouldering

3.9K views· 154 likes· 3:23· Apr 20, 2024

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Campusboard Training really payed off on this powerful dyno line! 1st Campusboard Training in Years unlocked hard Problem! Analytic Bouldering by Mani the Monkey How to support my work most effectively: Like, comment, subscribe, activate the stupid bell, Access exclusive content @ https://www.patreon.com/manithemonkey & @ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvkGOw5JmJ3TPdXNiEFwq6Q/join Tip Box @ https://www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney BTC: 16rkAJ8Urha5jFBcWD7bsUvHZazmWbWoRx ETH: 0xe63b232f81a82e3bc451504fec3c513e8c38cd8f Thanks! Streaming Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCiMLS-AXGkc-lYnOgpi8ag Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/manithemonkey/ Mani's Ticklist: https://www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos: Camera: https://goo.gl/iRwk5p Audiorecorder: https://goo.gl/XpnpHV Editing Machine (using FCPX): https://goo.gl/t9EaL3 Transparency and Disclaimer: Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases made from clicking these links will grant me a small Commission. For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com Stay strong and healthy somewhere out there!

About This Video

What is up ladies and gentlemen, Mani here. In this quick round of analytic bouldering at Newton Curg, I’m looking at a blue line with an undercling start, two footholds, and this quite aggressive pinch for the right hand. From there you go into two very, very shallow edges (and it’s important to notice they’re not jugs), before an easier top sequence. The whole thing is powerful and dynamic in an overhang—around 7B+ if I had to grade it—and even the entry feels hard because that volume pyramid kicks the overhang right into your face. The meat of the matter is the second move: a coordination double-catch dyno to a bigger slopey edge, basically managing momentum while still being able to actively pull. After failing it a few times, my thought was simple: man, it’s time to get back on the campus board. Campusboard work helps me create that active, dynamic finger power after a dynamic move, so I can pull further without having to first kill the swing. In the comparisons you can see it clearly: less drift to the left, more active on the pinch, straighter body, and way less wrong momentum when I stick the target hold. Then it’s undercling, big edge, gaston, match, higher left step, a semi-dynamic pull, turn the right hand, and we go to the top.

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