I rolled out of Lucky Bay and headed for Stokes Inlet (Benwenerup) feeling pretty excited for a slower, peaceful stay — I’d booked five nights and found myself a mega secluded little spot (site 8) up high with a view of the water. I did the usual van-life shuffle: hunting for sun for my solar, enough privacy, and enough reception to keep working. I also scoped out the best way to get my SUP down to the water because, honestly, lugging it wrecks my hips and that path felt like it went forever. Then the heat hit properly. With no ocean breeze on the inlet and no air con in the van, I was struggling — lightheaded, feeling heat-strokey, smashing hydralyte, and constantly washing myself down with water. I ended up changing my booking and copping the $40 cancellation fee because 37 degrees here with no wind is just not fun. But right when I thought the campsite was a write-off, a big heath monitor (goanna) wandered right up near my van looking for shade. I left some water out, watched her tongue-flick and drink, and later realised she might’ve been a female carrying eggs. It was such a grounding reminder that even when plans fall apart, nature still shows up — and I’m really just passing through their world.