In this beginner stained glass tutorial, I’m walking you through copper foiling—the step that makes soldering possible, because solder does not stick to glass. After grinding, I always start by cleaning every piece really well (especially if you used sticker patterns) so there’s no residue or oils that can make the foil lift later. I use isopropyl alcohol for this, and then I show you exactly how I start the foil on an inside edge, keep it centered as I go, overlap it slightly at the end, and trim it clean. I keep a lot of this video in real time with minimal edits so you can actually see how long foiling takes and what my hands are doing. I burnish with the end of a paintbrush (it’s perfect for crevices), and I talk about warming the foil with your finger—especially on curves—so it’s more flexible and less likely to split. I also show how to patch a rip with a small piece of foil, and how to pre-patch deep concave curves if you already know it’s going to tear. While I foil more pieces, I break down foil sizes (7/32, 3/16, 1/4) and backing colors (silver, copper, black), including how to match backing to your solder finish when you’re using transparent glass. This is basically the foundation for clean solder lines, and it sets you up for the final tutorial in this series: soldering.