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How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing on Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 (2013–2018

1.2K views· 30 likes· 14:58· Mar 29, 2026

In this video, I’ll show you step-by-step how to replace the front wheel bearing on a Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 (2013–2018). If you’re hearing grinding, humming, or vibration from the front end, a bad wheel bearing could be the problem—and I’ll walk you through exactly how to fix it yourself. This is a complete DIY guide where I cover: 🔧 All the tools you’ll need to get the job done 🔧 Step-by-step removal and installation 🔧 Important torque specs to do it correctly 🔧 Tips to make the job easier (even if it’s your first time) Whether you’re working on a Ram 2500 or 3500, this process is very similar across these model years, so you can follow along with confidence. ⸻ 💡 Why replace your wheel bearing? A worn wheel bearing can cause noise, vibration, and unsafe driving conditions. Replacing it yourself can save you hundreds of dollars in labor costs. ⸻ 🛠️ Tools & Parts Used: (Insert your affiliate links here) ⸻ ⚠️ Torque Specs Covered in This Video: (Be sure to follow manufacturer specifications for proper installation and safety) ⸻ 👍 If this video helped you out, don’t forget to hit the LIKE button and SUBSCRIBE for more step-by-step automotive repair videos! ⸻ #ram3500 #wheelbearing #diyautorepair #howtoautomotive #ramtrucks #mechaniclife #truckrepair

About This Video

In this video I’m working on a 2013–2018 RAM 3500 4x4 and replacing the right front (passenger side) hub and wheel bearing assembly. This is a super common failure on these trucks—especially if you’re running big oversized wheels—so I show you how to diagnose it first (ABS light from the built-in wheel speed sensor, play when you shake the tire up and down, clicking, and that classic growling noise). From there I walk you through getting it safely in the air on jack stands, turning the steering to access the back side, and unplugging/routing the ABS harness so nothing gets damaged. I pull the caliper and bracket off as one assembly (24mm bracket bolts), hang it with a bungee so it’s not on the brake hose, remove the rotor, then knock out the axle nut (34mm) and the four hub bolts (18mm). After the hub is off, I clean the mating surfaces so the new assembly sits flat, install the new hub with the ABS pointed up, and use red thread locker on the hub bolts. The big takeaways are the torque specs and doing it clean: hub bolts to 150 ft-lb, caliper bracket bolts to 260 ft-lb, lug nuts to 120 ft-lb, and the axle nut to 260 ft-lb—because that axle nut clamp load is critical to bearing life.

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