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How a Mechanic Replaces Rear Brakes On A Ford Econoline Van

317 views· 19 likes· 21:40· Apr 25, 2026

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🛠️ How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2006 Ford E350 Econoline Van (Step-by-Step DIY) In this video, I walk you step-by-step through how to replace the rear brake pads and rotors on a 2006 Ford E350 Econoline van. 👉 This procedure also applies to most Ford E-Series vans including E150, E250, and E350 from 2003–2007 (same body style and brake setup in most cases). If you’re working on one of these vans, this guide will walk you through the job from start to finish. If your brakes are worn out, squeaking, grinding, or your rotors are warped or dished, I’ll show you how to fix it the right way. ⸻ 🔧 What You’ll Learn: * How to safely lift and support the van * Removing rear wheels and brake components * Inspecting pads and rotors for wear * Removing and installing new rotors * Installing new brake pads and hardware * Proper reassembly and final safety checks ⸻ 🧰 Parts Used in This Video: 👉 Rear Brake Pads: affiliate link https://amzn.to/4d9lghB 👉 Rear Brake Rotors: affiliate link https://amzn.to/4d62aK4 (Fits most Ford E150 / E250 / E350 vans 2003–2007 — always confirm fitment for your specific vehicle) ⸻ 🔩 Tools You May Need: * Socket set & ratchet * Breaker bar * Torque wrench * C-clamp or caliper compression tool * Brake cleaner * Jack & jack stands

About This Video

In this video I’m working on a 2006 Ford Econoline E-350 and walking you step-by-step through replacing the rear brake pads and rotors. This same basic procedure applies to a lot of the 2003–2007 E-Series vans (E150, E250, E350) with the same brake setup. I show you how I jack the van up safely off the center of the pumpkin, set jack stands under the axle, pull the wheel, and then crack the caliper loose by prying the piston in just a bit so the caliper comes off easier. From there I go through removing the caliper and bracket (don’t hang the caliper by the hose), getting the rotor off, and what to do if the parking brake is keeping the rotor stuck. I also show you the right way to prep the hub—clean it down to bare metal—because rust or debris can cause runout and vibrations. Then I clean the new rotor’s oily film with brake clean, adjust the park brake star wheel until it’s in the ballpark with a slight drag, service the bracket hardware, lube the slides, and torque everything properly (122 ft-lb for the bracket bolts, 26 ft-lb for the caliper bolts, and 140 ft-lb for the lug nuts). Finally, I pump the brake pedal 5–6 times before driving so you’ve got a firm pedal.

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