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Can Oil Paints Work on Miniatures? - Coaching Session on painting Goblin Skin

978 views· 101 likes· 49:12· Sep 15, 2025

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Get my e-book 'Miniature Painters Guide to Mastering Oil Paints' for free: https://subscribepage.io/W9ka8A Current workshops: Oil painting the female form 22-23 november 2025 https://subscribepage.io/Yj7wbF How to paint NMM 10-11 january 2026: https://subscribepage.io/W7jnHY If you'd like to organize private coaching please reach out to me on email: wpdminis@gmail.com PATREON LINK: https://patreon.com/Watchpaintdry_minis Follow me on my socials! https://www.instagram.com/watchpaintdry_minis https://www.twitch.tv/chromanautcommunity Check out the brushes I use (affiliate link): https://www.rosemaryandco.com/pure-kolinsky-pointed?u=WATCHPAINTDRY Amazon affiliate links (for oil painting recommendations): Pigments: Napthol red: https://amzn.to/3PqQE0i Indian yellow: https://amzn.to/3r1slfU Ultramarine blue: https://amzn.to/3qZHeiV Titanium white: https://amzn.to/3Zo32Sd Lamp black: https://amzn.to/484yVmq Medium: Liquin : https://amzn.to/3PqRBWq Dilutent : https://amzn.to/3ZokXbr

About This Video

In this video I’m continuing my little quest to make oil paints less scary and more useful for miniature painters, and I’m doing it through a real coaching session with Armando. We paint goblin skin from start to finish (condensed into ~45 minutes): first an acrylic sketch to “greet and meet” the volumes and lock in the color zones, then we move into oils for the fast, satisfying midtone integration. The big idea is simple: green skin looks alive when you sneak some red into it—but because red and green fight each other, you have to control saturation and value so it doesn’t go dead and muddy. I walk through mixing from a limited palette (blue + Indian yellow makes a naturally olive green), how I desaturate with a touch of magenta/brown, and how I keep shadows from getting too dark (the most common face problem I see). Then I demo my oil “preglaze” (a thin burnt umber wash + wipe-back) so the surface is uniformly wet for wet-into-wet blending. From there it’s just placing chunky blocks of shadow/midtone/highlight next to each other and stippling them together—no endless layering. Oils do the heavy lifting in the midtones quickly; you’ll usually re-hit the highlights at the end because bright tones tend to recede when you blend.

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