In this video I’m mounting a big 35" Falken Wildpeak AT4W onto an 18" beadlock wheel, start to finish, like I’d do it in my own garage. Beadlocks look intimidating, but once you understand the order of operations—lube, seat the tire, get the ring lined up, and torque it correctly—it’s totally doable at home with the right tools and a little patience. I walk through the stuff that actually matters: getting the bead to cooperate, keeping the ring centered so you’re not fighting bolts, and why I always use anti-seize on beadlock hardware. I also show the tools I rely on, like a tire machine, valve stem tools, a torque wrench, and (when the tire doesn’t want to seat) a bead bazooka-style blaster to get that bead to pop. The big takeaway is simple: beadlocks aren’t “hard,” they’re just detail-heavy—go slow, tighten evenly in a star pattern, and torque everything properly so you don’t end up with leaks or a warped ring.