Don’t break your rope

Teeth on rope seem really scary, but are they? Multi-pitch climbers and guides have used progress capture pulleys like the Edelrid Spoc and Petzl Micro Traxion to belay their follower up to them. It requires much less effort than a device designed and rated for belaying. But what about the teeth? We used a 206 lbs rock, taking a factor 1 fall to generate 4.67 kN, ripping off the sheath and breaking two core strands. So how do we keep the force below 4 kN. One way is to keep slack out of the belay. Additionally, you can use an Edelrid G-Screamer. Edelrid was nice enough to bring in Tommy Caldwell to talk about the G-Screamer. Tommy was brave enough to take a big fall on a G Screamer attached to a Spoc. We weren't, so we used the rock again. After we figured out how to ensure slack without catching the rock with the rope when the screamer extended, the G-Screamer was able to reduce the force down to 4 kN, saving the rope. We just helped with a 4km high line where it would have been awesome to use progress capture pulleys to pull the main line across with the 4mm 12 braid HMPE tag line. https://youtu.be/x_x2vQvGGA0 Can you pull 4mm 12 braid HMPE up to 10 kN with toothed devices? Really, we want to know, as we haven't figured out a way yet. Buy all the cool toys we tested in this episode at https://www.hownot2.com 👉 Learn and SHOP at https://www.hownot2.com/ 👉 Best EMAILS on Earth: https://www.hownot2.com/signup 👉 10% off ROCKY TALKIE by clicking https://www.hownot2.com/rocky